Sewing Terms & Definitions-Series III

As mentioned in my previous posts, whenever I have a sewing class or private sewing lesson, I provide my students with a Treasured Guidelines folder. one of the most important pieces of information included in that folder is, Sewing Terms and Definitions.

Today we will be going over Part III in this series, if you missed Part I & Part II; you can read about that here. Today, we will be going over the definitions of pattern Grainlines, Ham (Tailor's Ham), Hems, Interfacing, Interlining, fabrics with Nap/without Nap, and Notions. We will cover these seven definitions along with example photos.

GRAINLINES: the grainline is printed on the tissue pattern pieces as a straight line with arrowheads on either end. This line MUST be parallel to the selvage of the fabric so that the piece will be cut with the grain of the fabric. Some grainlines are angled toward one edge of the pattern piece are to be placed on the fold of the fabric, sometimes labeled "Place on the Fold"; you must ensure the fabric is folded with selvages parallel so that the straight-grain of fabric is still true. This ensures your finished garment will hang properly.

In the example photos, this is a copy of one of my patterns I made for my basic boxer shorts pattern. I label it with as much information to remind me how to lay the fabric out to get the best results. In the following photo, if the pattern markings are not showing on the pattern paper, most manufacturers will have that information and helpful definitions listed in the instruction sheets.

HAM: also referred to as a Tailors' Ham, this pressing ham is literally a firmly stuffed ham shape with curved edges. It is useful for pressing curved seams like princess seams and darts. Similarly and pictured below, (honorable mention) a Sleeve Roll is used to press sleeves cuffs without leaving creases. Both serve the same purpose, however the sleeve roll makes it easier to fit inside a cuff. Generally, the plaid side of both the ham and the sleeve roll is used for woolens, synthetic blends and other fabrics requiring low to medium pressing temperatures. The cotton side of the ham and seam rolls is used for cottons, linens, and other fabrics requiring medium to high temperatures when pressing.

HEM: is a turned under edge, to the inside of a sewn item, made by folding edge of the sewn item to the inside of the item. Hems affects the way something will hang and sometimes hem weights are used to assist in gaining the desired appearance. The amount of hem depends on the item, the weight of the fabric and the amount of fabric available to turn under.

In the example photos, I have created three types of hems (I used contrasting thread & colors to make it easier to see). From the top to bottom: the top sample is a hem usually used on skirts, slacks, etc. with blind-hand stitching to make it hard to see on the outside of the fabric. The second example is a narrow rolled hem, whereas the machine stitching is visible from the outside of the hem. The last example is hemmed by turning the fabric under twice the desired length and machine stitched to secure the hem in place. The other photo shows what each hem looks like if it were on the outside of the garment.

INTERFACING: a layer of fabric or specialty fabric that is put between fabric layers to add support, strength, and stability at waistbands, collars, cuffs, facings, etc. Use interfacing that corresponds with the main weight of the fabric for example, use lightweight interfacing for lightweight fabrics and use heavyweight interfacing for heavyweight fabrics. There are many varieties of types of weights of interfacing, but fusible and sew-in are the two applications used most often. If using fusible interfacing, PRESS, do not iron; place hot iron on the interfaced piece, hold for 10 seconds, lift and reposition. Allow to cool completely before stitching.

INTERLINING: is also a layer of fabric or specialty fabric used between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment, not interfacing. This layer is referred to as interlining because it too provides support inside a garment for structure. Typically, the interlining is used to add extra structure to garment pieces requiring additional support such as bonded-bodices in corsets or bustier, wedding gowns, tailored suit jackets, etc. Interlining and interfacing are often used to mean the same thing, although they function the same way, they don't mean the same thing.

Photo from a page inside: Singer Sewing Reference Library-Sewing Essentials Book-Copyright 1984

NAP/without NAP: a fabric with a nap is one that usually has a pile and will look different shades with different angles. Velvet or velour fabrics are prime examples of fabrics with naps. When cutting on fabrics with NAP it is important to remember to follow the grainline of your patterns whereas all your pattern pieces are going in the same direction; this ensures your fabric will look the same color when sewn together.  Please note, fabric with directional or one-way designs are also considered "with nap" so use the cutting layout for same direction patterns; also in some cases, if not most, you will need more fabric than recommend on the pattern envelope. When laying out patterns on fabric without NAP, it's business as usual, just follow the layout/grainline of your fabric as normal.

NOTIONS: notions are all the small tools used in sewing to aid in working/finishing a sewing project. Sewing notions include (but not limited to) items like needles, thread, pins, fabric marking pens, chalk, elastics, seam rippers, zippers, buttons, etc.

In the example photos, I have all the notions a beginner sewing student would need in our Treasured Tool Kit (Shameless plug for my teaching business!). I have only a few available, if you'd like to purchase one for yourself, send me an email.

This concludes today's post. In our fourth and final series, we will define Pattern Notches, Pressing vs Ironing, Pressing Cloth, Remnants, Seam Allowances, and Seam Layering.

I hope you found this information helpful. If you have some definitions you'd like me to review, feel free to leave a comment.

Until next time!